Early Experiences with Sous Vide
Sunday, December 4th, 2011My early experiences with sous vide, the cooking of vacuum-sealed food in a tightly temperature-controlled water bath, has been decidedly mixed. My first experience ended with unacceptably mushy steak, which I later discovered was due to excessively prolonged cooking of the tender cuts of beef I chose.
Eggs, often touted as one of the particular strengths of the method, were my next target. According to Douglas Baldwin’s widely-used sous vide cookbook, the “perfect egg” can be achieved by cooking an egg in its shell at 148° F for 45-60 minutes. The results were – interesting. Maybe some people consider the egg “perfect”. It was quite runny and had a somewhat custard-like texture. I’m not a huge fan of boiled eggs in any form, so I may not be the right person to judge this. I tried another version at 167 degrees, but it tasted just like a hard boiled egg to me. One of the issues here is the nature of sous vide. It cooks the entire egg evenly, but I suspect many people prefer a slightly more cooked white and a slightly runnier yolk.
Baldwin’s recipe for pulled pork was my next target. Chunks of pork shoulder (affectionately known as “Boston Butt” – which I sent my poor wife to request at the supermarket) are brined in a mixture of kosher and smoked salt for one day, then the meat is cooked at 160° F for another 24 hours. The resulting pork had a great texture, easily chopped or mashed with a fork to produce the classic pulled-pork texture. The main flavoring then becomes whatever barbecue sauce you prefer. I used an old favorite I had tried in Minneapolis from Famous Dave’s. The result was pretty good. It could use a bit more smokey flavor, and may also benefit from a finishing broil or torch. Some other recipes use a spice rub, which I think could really make the pork more interesting.
Having failed with my first set of steaks, I tried again with a tenderloin at 130°F, but this time limiting my cooking time to 2 hours and finishing with a quick sear on the grill. The steak came out great both times I’ve tried it and I can truly say I felt it was better than other methods I’ve tried. The beef flavor seemed stronger. I seasoned before sealing once and after remove from the bag another time. There wasn’t a big difference, but the second method seemed to result in less fluid loss from the steak during cooking. My wife wasn’t as impressed with her New York strip steak. I thought the tenderloin tasted better, but I prefer this stake via any cooking method. A flank steak cooked for 6 hours came out great as well, though it was used for burritos, not as a plain steak.
I also tried salmon, which is usually a particular challenge to cook because of its uneven thickness (which also makes it a great candidate for sous vide). While Baldwin recommends 140° F for 40 minutes, this seemed too high to me, so after reading online I first did a quick brine for 20 minutes (6 tablespoons for 1 quart – probably too little) in a Ziploc bag sitting in an ice water bath. I then cooked at 130 for 20 minutes with a brief broil to finish after seasoning with pepper, garlic and oil. The salmon was surprisingly not mushy at all, even firmer than with the traditional approach, though this probably reflects the brining. The fish was perfectly cooked throughout. I’m not sure it was any better than the traditionally cooked salmon, but it required much less monitoring. It’s also hard to differentiate the effects of the brine from the sous vide approach.




